Sunday 4 December 2011

Handbrakes, positive thinking, and the perils of tidiness

We’re still feeling lucky today – more so because we realised that we’d parked the van on a downhill slope facing the cliff, and we’d been sunbathing on the bit of beach directly underneath.  How fortunate that our would-be burglar wasn’t the sort to take the handbrake off and watch it roll.  It would have been a nasty end to our holiday, to the van, and indeed to the Spanners.
Things were put into even sharper perspective when we heard war photographer Giles Duley on a BBC World Service broadcast (and how CAN they be thinking of cutting that?).  This is a man who lost three limbs to an IED in Afghanistan, then lost his income and his home too, but who is still interested in other people's stories.  I think I would feel very bitter, but that didn’t even seem to cross his mind. The link below is nothing to do with the interview we heard -  I haven't even read this page because anything with pictures seems to suck the life out of our poor dongle - but I hope he still comes across as an amazing bloke, because that's how he seemed to us. It made us feel a bit pathetic and whiny actually. It's not like we're in a war zone, after all.
This morning we went for a lovely bike ride from the camperstop at Quarteira....

...along to Villamoura, which is very much the posh end of town:  the gin palaces in the harbour  made the ones  in Quarteira look like toys.  Some godawful names, though, like Crystal Princess.  It soothed the envy a bit – not much, but a bit - to see such incontrovertible evidence that money can’t buy taste.
It IS a bit of a Brit ghetto here – English is spoken everywhere (often better by the Portuguese than by the Brits), and every other bar calls itself a pub and advertises Full English Breakfasts And Sunday Roasts With Pudding.  I quite fancied that, but Mike wouldn’t hear of it, and I’m grateful to him now as I am still losing weight.  The travelling life seems to suit me, so much so that I’ll soon need to make more new holes in my belt and even cut the long dangly end of it off.  OK, maybe I’m bragging a bit, but things are certainly going in the right direction.

After the bike ride we were off to see Tommy, proprietor of the only campervan shop on the Algarve, to get our new lock fixed.   Only problem was, Mike had changed the oil – without spilling a single drop on the floor – and then, getting into the general spirit of tidiness and cleanliness, I put the can of used oil neatly under the van.  I'm sure you can guess the rest, but setting off for Tommy’s, we drove over it.  There was a loud bang which we thought was a tyre exploding, and when we looked outside, we wished it had been.  There was oil everywhere, though thankfully only a drop or two on the brand spanking new motorhome parked next door, otherwise we’d still be there now washing it off.  Most of it sprayed under our own van, which I’d guess would be good on the rust-proofing front.  Also on the plus side, we were very close to the beach so could easily get sand to soak up the mess.  But positive thinking can only get you so far.  It was , actually, a bitch of a couple of hours, and I think you can probably see that Mike was less than cheery.  He may even have been wondering why I was taking pictures instead of helping, but I after listening to Giles Duley I felt it was almost my duty to document what had happened.

Mike did forgive me eventually, and I hope Mr. Duley would too.  And I did help a bit.

Oh bugger - the computer charge is on its last legs, so I’ll have to write about Tommy and the Mozzie Zappers next time.  We have a new lock, anyway.  Safe Spanners!  No idea at all if anyone is reading this, but if you are, lots of love, and don't worry - all is lovely.

Saturday 3 December 2011

Hymer 1, Burglar 0

Sines looked like a nice little pointy headland on the map so we went there, only to find it was one big oil refinery.  It seems strange that they put these things in what would be such pretty places otherwise, but it reminded me of when I used to play an early version of Sim City on SuperNintendo – the taxpayers hated power stations in industrial areas, but they all kept voting for you if you put the nukes at the seaside and threw in a fairground or two in the city centre.  
We drove on to Porto Covo, where we found a group of about a dozen vans parked up on the cliffs, and everyone sitting out and watching the sunset.  As you may be able to see from the photo, Senor Spanner is completely recovered.
We also met a really inspiring man called Martin; his muscular dystrophy is getting worse so he and his wife sold their business fourteen months ago and have been travelling more or less ever since.  He was so lacking in self-pity it was humbling, and it was a real pleasure to meet them both.  As seasoned travellers, they also gave us co-ordinates for lots of camperstops and places you can get water – very useful, as it’s definitely harder in Portugal and Spain than it was in France.
Next morning we realised it was 1st December - we’ve been living in the van for two months!  It’s hard to believe it’s nearly Christmas when the weather is so lovely (the Portuguese snigger at our shorts and flip-flops and pull their winter coats a bit tighter as they pass),  but it also seems so fresh and exciting still that it feels like we only left five minutes ago.  We’re having to watch the cents though – thirty euros a day doesn’t buy as much as we hoped it would - so we only went a short distance down to Zambujeira and parked up next to another Hymer.  It was much smarter than ours;  it even had a vase of flowers in the front.  They were very polite Dutch people, but we could tell that they found the mess of maps and blankets and banana skins on our dashboard not quite to their taste.
The next day we were very silly, but got away with it.  It was hot, and the SatanNav had taken us along yet another sheep-track just south of Zambujeira when we saw a clifftop carpark with wooden steps down to the most beautiful beach.  It did feel a bit isolated but we didn’t really think anything of it, so we set the alarm and off we went for a couple of hours of gambolling in the surf and suchlike – it was absolutely lovely.  However, when we trudged back up to the van we couldn’t open the door:   it had been forced with a screwdriver.  When we did get in we found that the van had been ransacked - all the cupboards open and all our clothes on the floor (bit like our bedroom at home really but felt a lot less friendly).  We thought the worst, but then, one by one, we found the laptop, the satnav, the i-pod, my Kindle, the Flip video recorder, and even Mike’s ancient digital camera, and realised that our ten quid alarm system must have frightened them off.  Nothing had been taken, nothing at all, and we went from desolation to euphoria in about ten minutes.  After about half an hour we even felt grateful – we’d been reminded to be more careful for the price of a new lock. 
There WERE a few minutes, though, where Mike thought some of his clothes had gone.  I realised (again) how shallow I am when I noticed that, although I was concerned for Mike, I was actually feeling much more offended that they hadn’t taken any of mine.
Big love and hugs to you all.  In case you’re worried, tonight we’re parked up next to the beach in Quarteiria with thirty-four other vans. 

Friday 2 December 2011

29th November - Lisbon


We found a lovely camperstop on the seafront at Belem - the place where Vasco da Gama sailed from, apparently - then got the train and metro into the centre.  We were nearly defeated by Lisbon’s ticket system: you need to buy a travel card and then charge it with enough money for the journeys you want to take, but this has to be done via a machine which only speaks Portuguese and which goes back to the start of the process if you hesitate for even a nanosecond.  If it hadn’t been for a couple of Portuguese teenagers who did it for us, we’d have had to forget Lisbon and scurry back to the van like the country bumpkins we are. When we get back we’re actually going to seek out  confused travellers to help!
We bust the budget today with lunch out in Lisbon, but it was worth it for the experience of proper Portuguese food.  At least we think it was proper Portuguese food, but it’s possible the chef put a fried banana on the fish for a laugh.
We also had our first guest for dinner in the van - Nick, also driving an old Hymer, who's taken a year out from work to travel. He can't believe his luck either.

Senor Spanner is indisposed

Mike was going to write about Sao Martinho, but we had a long old drive today towards Lisbon and visited four alleged camperstops before finally finding this wonderful place in Sintra – it’s only a town car park really, but it feels like home tonight.  I don’t think I’ve ever seen Mike so tired and in need of a large G&T before dinner, but four?   He is now in bed, but sends hishlove.  

San Martinho was lovely – a pretty little town built around an extraordinary, almost circular natural harbour.  There is a small tunnel through the cliffs where you can walk from the calm water on one side to where the Atlantic is smashing into the rocks on the other.  The contrast is amazing, and even though I know how it works it still seems bizarre that a few yards of stone can make so much difference.  Going to join Senor Spanner now, but off to Lisbon tomorrow, which is very exciting.  We are having such a lovely time! xxxx